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Hey RickT
The scale length is 24 13/16” to be exact.
I use standard banjo scale length measurements but take away the first fret. 26.25” standard minus the length of the first fret = 24 13/16”.
The measurements for standard fret distances is readily available online. I won’t post here because it’s a lot to type out and I’m in inches and you’re in metric, but I’m sure you’ll figure it out.Would be great to see what you do with the planetary tuners! What’s your plan for the fifth string peg?
I have had this buzz you speak of, in my case it comes from the knots/string ends at the leather tailpiece, vibrating against the drumhead. I folded a piece of paper and wedged it between the tailpiece and the head. I suppose the solution with the nylon strings is tie the knots on the top side of the tailpiece or trim them close on the underside. Anyway, obviously not an issue for you now with different strings.Thanks for sharing!
Steel strings sound really nice with the plastic drumhead option. I like what you did to modify the tailpiece.
I’d like to offer a steel string kit model in the future, the main thing that has been holding me back is I’m still looking for a reliable and cost effective supply of geared tuners and metal tailpieces.
I’m sorry you had issues with the nylon strings. I don’t doubt you but I feel I should add that my kits with nylon strings will stay in tune and do not buzz when set up properly. There are a lot of factors that could cause these issues and I’d be glad to go into more detail on how to narrow them down and how to remedy it if anyone is having similar issues.How do you like the way it plays papasims? I believe you’re the first to receive the newest bridge. I made these bridges partially with a CNC and then shaped and notched by hand.
Continued
Thanks for sharing pics! I’ll repost them, see if it works this way. I like what you did with the softening of the edges, especially on the peghead.
I am sorry for the shipping delays. I am seeing a lot of my shipments are taking 10-14+ days to arrive despite going 3 day priority mail. From what I understand it has been a big mess at a lot of hubs, some are still processing packages from the holidays! Hopefully things pick up and if they don’t I will be considering switching to fedexGreat job Chris!
You chose my favorite neck model, I’m glad you are enjoying it! Thank you for sharing your experience and pictures!Hey Rick, thanks for your order and it will be out by the end of the week.
The peghead is 1/2” +/-1/16”
Machine tuners can be done and there are a few examples from customers posted on this forum I believe.
The peghead tuners should be easy, might have to drill a larger hole for the tuners.
Will have to get creative to get a geared tuner to fit the neck at the fifth string.Hey Rich thanks for posting! I think you are on the right track, good idea to sand/scuff up the surface that will be covered by the skin. Should help the glue stick a lot better
Hey Chris, I can do either style, just let me know when you order.
The kit page is missing some photos and descriptions, I will be updating everything very soon, but they are available in the meantime. Thank youThank you! I have only just started selling these and none have been shipped out yet. I’m looking forward to seeing them out there soon too.
When you order the kit I’ll see if I have any b grade rims I can throw in.
I recently sold off a large number of the b grade rims but I’m sure I’ll have more in the future.The banjo looks really nice with the walnut caps and the monogram looks clean.
I suggest start with the tall bridge. It’s a matter of preference really, the taller bridge will have the strings higher off the neck but there is less likely going to be any fret buzz problems even in higher humidity conditions which could cause the skin to temporarily sag a little. If it plays better with the shorter bridge, go for that and keep the taller if ever need to counteract any humidity sagHi Maurits,
In short, yes it looks correct in your photo. I will refer you to the string page for a more detailed explanation:Are you only seeing one video on the minstrel kit page? I’m wondering if YouTube is blocking some because you are in another country?
This is how the page should look: see attachmentAttachments:
Thanks for joining the forum!
The 3 assembly videos on the minstrel kit page should get you going. The third video is a complete assembly video made by a customer.Here is an older video, watch this and then finish the process by watching the “tacking a skin” video.
Heres another customer assembly video for a kit similar in construction.
Hi Tyler,
Yes for the most part once a skin is tacked on its tension is set but It will constantly change with differences in humidity. You might see it sag slightly during summer months and return to higher tension in winter months. This is the drawback of a tackhead. We can compensate and expect these things to happen and still keep our banjo playable year round.
First, we need optimal tension when we attach the skin.
Next we need to be mindful of the external environment we are putting the skin through.
Last we can set the action a little higher so a slight sag in the skin won’t affect playability too much.
As far as replacing the skin, if the skin is put on correctly it should last for many many years and only to be replaced when damaged. I have a personal kit I use often and I put it together in 2018. It’s playable year round and the skin is in the same condition today as it was 5 years ago.
Also, I am releasing 12” adjustable tension rim kits and adjustable tension mountain banjo kits in 2025 so check back if that interests you!I just checked out your gourd post on the other page, looks really nice, thank you for sharing freeman.
The Appalachian neck could definitely be an offering on a 12” rim in the future.
I’m planning to start the year 2025 with just the Appalachian necks and minstrel necks and maybe a third- I’m thinking the Banza neck, If there is interest I will make all 3 neck types available across the mountain kit, gourd kit and rim kits. I’m trying to focus in on making less neck types so I can build up a stock and then be able to ship out orders much faster.I sold the bent rim kits with peghead options for about one year and had not a lot of success. I am currently focusing on the minstrel neck and will consider offering other neck options in the future. Is there a certain neck option you would like to see on a bent rim kit?
Thank you!Hey SC, while I check to make sure frets are smooth with each kit, I’ve seen this happen and yes definitely humidity could be a factor.
I would sweep a file along the edges of the fingerboard. Then go over with around 150 grit sandpaper and continue through to 220 and 320 as you sand the rest of the neck.
I imagine the wood has shrunk as much as it is going to and once you seal it with a finish, varnish, oil etc, it will be pretty stable.The tuning peg holes are 9/32”.
I have never used geared violin tuners. I’ve seen some customers used planetary banjo pegs and I’ve seen guitar geared pegs used too.
I always encourage customers to use the friction pegs provided because they really do work very well when set up correctly. I can not guarantee any other pegs will work except for the pegs I provide.
The bridge and nut slot widths, I’m not sure exactly. I file the grooves in most of my bridges to what I know will accept the nylon strings.
I have several nut types for different kits.
If you have a white plastic nut it’s handmade and I fit the slots to match the standard strings I include with the kit.
If you have a black 3d printed nut, the slots I believe are uniformly 2mm across and may need small adjustments to fit each string.
If you have a fretted kit, the slots will be deeper to allow the strings to seat on fret zero.
I don’t fully understand the point of this question because you have the kit and can measure these things. If you want to explain what you are thinking with the nut and bridge maybe I can offer some help or suggestions on that.
Thank you!
