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I’m now packaging all of my kits with a versatile string set. This allows for cello (low) tuning on any kit. For this reason I’m taking the “cello banjo” kit off, at least for now. Moving in to 2025 I am going to focus mainly on the classic minstrel neck. This neck can accommodate the lower cello strings just as well as the cello neck has.
I’m planning to offer the minstrel neck on a tackhead bent rim kit, a gourd kit and on a rim kit with adjustable head tension hardware. I will also soon make the classic minstrel neck available WITH FRETS. It makes sense to focus in on this capable neck design and use it across the board.
So that being said, the cello banjo kit is out of the lineup, at least for now. Please consider the classic minstrel kit instead and you can tune it exactly as the cello kit.Attachments:
So this is an example. Feel free to start your own post to ask your specific questions.
I will do my best to help. I also welcome other users to chime in with their own suggestions and solutions.For questions about buying replacement parts or for more private conversations you are always welcome to email me at carverbanjos@gmail.com
You bring up another good point to mention. My sets are thicker strings and standard g tuning is possible but not ideal for the strings. My personal banjos always settle down to E, 2 steps below standard g tuning. And instead of always retuning I just leave it there.
For standard G definitely experiment with banjo string sets like Aquila nylgut etc.
I’ve used classical guitar nylon strings for years because they are a fraction of the cost of banjo sets and they are much more durable.
I’d love to hear your findings on how the aquilas work out and what tunings they hold the best for your kit. Thank youFor the bridge question: there can be a lot of debate on it but I’ll give you my opinion.
5/8 should be the maximum height bridge used. If you need higher action you should adjust the neck angle by resetting the black screw in the dowel/rim joint.
My reasoning is that using taller bridges is less effective past 5/8 because you are adding more tension at the bridge- the strings are going to push down harder on the bridge and sink it into the skin further, it starts to just even out no matter how tall the bridge gets.
Adjusting the neck angle keeps the downward force on the bridge in a good range.The classic cello kit has the widest neck for my full-sized kits. The string spacing can accommodate 4 or 5 strings at the nut. If you go with 4 at the nut I can space them out even further because there is plenty of room on the neck width for it.
The next widest nut in full size would be the classic minstrel.Thanks for the questions. I’m asked this a lot so I’m glad to have it here on the forum for everyone to see.
All measurements are in inchesClassic minstrel
nut width: 1 13/32
String spacing: 5/16Classic cello
Nut width 1 19/32
Spacing approx 5/16Classic Americana (these are probably the closest to “standard” for any of my kit offerings).
Nut 1 7/32
Spacing 5/16Celebration Minstrel
Nut 1 17/32
Spacing 3/8All other necks not listed above have identical nut widths and spacing.
This would cover all discontinued 12” and 10” diy kits, all the mountain kits, all the gourd kits all the travel kits.
Nut 1 5/16
Spacing 5/16All kits have a scale length of 24 13/16
EXCEPT: celebration minstrel scale length 21”, travel kit scale length 22”.All kits use a standard size bridge string spacing approx 7/16 and all kits come with a 5/8 tall bridge, some include a 1/2 tall bridge as well.
I do not have a brand on the strings because I’ve used various non-branded strings which I acquire in bulk.
I’m planning to release my own string sets soon that include 7 strings so you can choose the range you want to tune your kit to. These strings will work on all of my kits.
The best I can say for replacements at the moment is to use classical nylon guitar strings in the light-medium range. I talk about my strings in the video posted below at the 25 minute mark.
No worries and good luck with the clean up. That foxfire book you have is exactly what got me started on building banjos. It can be done with little money as they used to do back in the day.
Thanks for posting and always welcome here.
